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新闻洗涤报:令人头晕目眩的中国(二)

作者:施索恩工作室 时间:2015-01-13 16:24 
孤叶工作室


【译文介绍】新闻洗涤报记者阿南德在中国的记事,他在中国的游历颇有心得,并且对此反省印度的问题。通篇不失幽默,但有哀伤与感叹的文学风格。



In preparation for my China visit, I had immersed myself in Mao: The Unknown Story, a riveting biography by Chang and Halliday. I was eager to finish the book while still in India – it is banned in China – and truth be told, the prospect of a midnight knock on my hotel room door made me think twice about lugging the book along. I chose the harmless autobiography of Naipaul’s editor instead.

在我准备访问中国的时候,我已经完全沉浸在《毛:鲜人知的故事》,这本由Jung Chang和Halliday所写的传记文学里了【注1】。因为这本书在中国是禁止上市的,因此我急于争取在印度时就读完它。老实说,经过慎重的考虑,为了避免我的旅馆房间的门在半夜时分无故被人敲响,我选择了不至于被人半夜查水表的Naipaul的自传文学。

【osmond译注01】这里说的是一个叫张戎的四川女人,上世纪七八十年代毕业后去英国留学后来留在英国没有回来,在英国嫁了人后和她老公合写了一本中文译本叫《毛:鲜为人知的故事》的传记书,这本书在大陆是禁书。香港有卖的,楼主看过,应该说真假难辨各自参半吧。主要的她的立场有问题,听说大陆的文人都把这个女人叫“文娼”。感兴趣的友友去找一下,应该不难找到这本书的电子档。

The Unknown Story paints a devastating picture of the man whose sphinx-like face stares at you from every Chinese currency note. In short, Mao, if death had not intervened, would have destroyed and obliterated the country otherwise known as China, and would have killed even more people than the 70 million he managed to through his twisted policies. Mao was a poet – as I learnt through this masterful work – which goes on to prove that only bards can cause so much devastation through their creative writing; prose writers are slight and inconsequential in comparison – let Arundhati try and convince people to embrace anarchy, ultra-Left ideology, Marxism, and collectivisation as effectively as Mao. (Wait a minute…)

这本《毛:鲜人知的故事》描述的是一个像狮身人面像一样的人物,他在每一张流通的人民币上凝视着你。总之,如果毛不死的话,会给这个叫中国的国家带来毁灭性的破坏。相较于因为他制定了扭曲的政策而带来的7000万人的死亡,如果他不死的话将会死掉更多的人。毛是个诗人,这也让我认清了诗人具有多大的杀伤力:他们只通过吟诗作对的创作就会造成这么大的破坏,而在我们的认知里通常是犀利无情的散文家想影响社会进程就显得如同螳臂挡车一般的渺小和无力。让如同神灵附体的,具有超能力一般的毛【注2】试图说服人们拥抱混乱,接受无政府状态、极左思想、马克思主义和集体主义吧。等一下……

【osmond译注02】这里说的Arundhati是一部印度恐怖电影的女主名字,楼主恰巧看过。电影讲的是一个怨妇前世今生借身还魂复仇未遂的故事,基本没什么看头。这个词用在这里是想说太祖就像电影里那个冤魂一样可以入人脑控制人的言行的意思。

Here is one of Mao’s early poems, when he was young and impressionable and merely crystallising his thoughts and ideas that would later compel his people to eat each other in desperation during the great famine that followed the great leap forward.

毛早期的这首诗歌在后来成了他的思想的结晶和观点,以至于在后来的大饥荒和大跃进期间,这些思想和观点强迫着他的人民在绝望中易子相食。

Sorrow, piled on my pillow, what is your shape?
Like waves in rivers and seas, you endlessly churn.
How long the night, how dark the sky, when will it be light?
Restless, I sat up, gown thrown over my shoulders, in the cold.
When dawn came at last, only ashes remained of my hundred thoughts.

堆来枕上愁何状,江海翻波浪,夜长天色总难明,寂寞披衣起坐数寒星;
晓来百念都灰尽,剩有离人影,一勾残月向西流,对此不抛眼泪也无由。【注3】
【osmond译注03】这是太祖年轻时写给他的第一任妻子杨开慧的类似情书的一首词,这首词的词牌名叫《虞美人.枕上》,是首好词,有好多种英文译法。这篇文章中的是一种不太典型的英文译法。

Not bad, is it? Which is why it came as a surprise a few hundred pages further down in the book, when the same genial rhymester said this:
“Do unto people what you would never do unto you.”

 这诗很不错对吧?这也就是为什么我说它是来自一本几百页的书里面的一个惊喜。而且诗人还亲切和蔼,用给人温暖的语气这样说:“己所不欲,勿施于人。”

He may be praised to the skies in Chinese schools, worshipped at politburo gatherings, but the naked truth is that Chairman Mao’s imprint on China is now but a watermark on her currency notes. It is unthinkable that all this economic progress would have happened under his keen eye and nod. Max Plank once famously said: “Science proceeds, funeral by funeral.” So do nations that are burdened with the legacy of beatified leaders who see progress only through their narrow eyes and narrower viewpoints. Sooner or later people start worshipping their leaders and stop following them. For China to become the future it was crucial that Mao became history first.

也许,毛确实在中国的广大学子中备受瞻仰、也确实在中南海的政治局会议中被顶礼膜拜。但一个赤裸裸的现实是:“毛主席”这一称谓是以印刷在所有流通的人民币上这一方式来让他保持如此崇高的地位的。我们无法想象,如果依赖于毛“敏锐的眼光和首肯”,今天的中国是否能取得如此难以置信的经济成就。Max Plank【注4】有句名言这样说的:科学前进路上的棺木前仆後继(译注1.1)。正因如此,即便是鼠目寸光和心胸狭隘的人也可以成为这个国家向前发展所背负的良性资产。早晚有一天,人们会停止盲目的崇拜他们的领导人,毛将成为中国历史上绝无仅有的享此殊荣的一位个人崇拜对象。

【osmond译注04】这里说的这个MAX是一个德国的物理学家。
(劍译注1.1)原作者的翻译太直白,这样翻译较好。这句是说每当科学出现的过程,总有一些人会因故死去。

I am in Tianjin, a city of 14 million that I hadn’t heard the name of a few weeks ago. It has a GDP per capita ($ 15,000) higher than any other city in China, higher even than Beijing and Shanghai. And no one I met before or since my visit to China knows of Tianjin. Seeing the city up close, strolling through its malls, parks and public squares, I find it hard to believe that an incredibly prosperous metropolis is for most Indians a KBC trivia! Figuring out this conundrum is not easy, and hours of skull-knocking makes me conclude that unaccounted, unimaginable, disposable, disposed wealth is to blame.

我现在在天津,一个几周前我连听都没听过的城市。这个城市有1400万人口,人均国内生产总值高达15000美元,比中国国内所有的城市都高,甚至超过了北京和上海,在我来到这个城市之前我所遇过的人更是都没听过天津。随着我越来越走近这个城市,漫步于她的卖场、公园和广场,我发现天津这样一个繁华到无以复加的大城市,对于大多数印度人来说,只是如同他们看的KBC问答节目【注5】一般,难以理解。为什么会这样?经过一段时间的敲头晃脑的苦思后,我得出如下结论:这些感觉应该归咎于一夜暴富后的千篇一律的建筑,一切都与我无关。

【osmond译注05】这里这个词组Indians a KBC trivia可能是指印度一个什么电视台的八卦节目之类的,楼主完全的翻译无能。(剑译注)KBC trivia是印度一个机智问答节目,优胜者可得高额奖金。这句应该是指天津的繁华就像机智问答一样难解。

An Indian city, you see, is unique; its USP is its culture, the crumbling state of its buildings, the distinctive architecture, the civility of its residents, the mishmashed display of its filth and opulence. Every city, from Allahabad to Mysore, has a peculiarity, a certain buzz that makes it unique and different from other cities. Its people display a range of skin colour, facial features, dress codes, spitting acumen, road wisdom, eve-teasing expertise.

而在印度,你所看到的任何一个城市都是独一无二的。印度城市的文化氛围就像是它的专利一样独具代表性,比如:摇摇欲坠的建筑物、造型独特的建筑物、居民的礼节、污秽不堪和富丽堂皇的同步混搭展示等。从阿拉哈巴德到迈索尔,每一个城市都有自己的个性,都有着与其他城市不同的喧嚣声,每一个城市的居民都有着不同的肤色、五官和着装规范、比如:姿势优美的随地吐痰、强行抢车道的学问、挑逗男性的专业说词等等。

【劍译注:eve-teasing = 夏娃的挑逗。是印度媒体的一种新闻用语,由於文化保守,在报章描述性犯罪如脱衣、殴打、撕衣服时,多用此称代替。】

With wealth though, comes parity, comes uniformity – everything glistens, one building shines just like another, one road is as smooth as the next, every car is an Audi. Wealth erodes individuality. Tianjin is like Beijing is like Shanghai is like Hong Kong, from the airports to the railway stations to the bus depots, from the cars and the buses on the roads to its manicured street flora to the glowing shopping malls. Wealth, money, gold, possessions, they are the great equalisers. When the belly of its residents is full, the city ceases to have an underbelly. And Tianjin glistens just like one more studded diamond in the Chinese tiara. It’s all the same to you after a while. Beauty begets boredom.

中国的财富的增长带来了以下东西:每一栋楼都闪闪发光、每一条路都比下一条路更光滑平整、每一辆在路上跑的车都是奥迪——这一切看起来都那么的金光耀眼,当然了,财富也正在侵蚀着城市的个性。天津也像北京、上海、香港这些大都市一样,无论是机场、火车站还是公交总站,从马路上的汽车公交,甚至于连路边的绿化带都修剪得一样的整齐。你所拥有的财富、钞票、黄金和个人财产,它们是人类历史上伟大的平等工具,当这个城市居民可以吃饱穿暖,那么这个城市就不会存在不稳定因素。这些繁华都市对于中国来说,就像是镶满钻石的头饰。天津只是其中一个多看一眼都会让你感觉审美疲劳的诸多大城市之一罢了。



The buildings are immense – when they are not tall they are impossibly wide, like the Tianjin Museum or the Tianjin Convention Centre. But the beauty, if you must, is state-orchestrated, like East Germany on steroids.

天津的建筑物是巨大的,但并非全部都是不可思议的巨大。比如天津博物馆、天津会展中心等就不是巨大但是一定很美。这些建筑的建设都得经过国家精心策划、统一安排,如同打了鸡血的东德。【注6】

【osmond译注06】这里说的东德类固醇事件是指东西德还没有合并成现在的德国的时候,东德的体育官员为了在奥运赛场上多拿冠军。给很多运动员服用一种类固醇,这种药物会大增体内的雄性激素。

Cities take a long time to develop, to gain a spirit, a smell. Cities are not made in a decade, they crumble and rise, they don’t gush up like oil or sprout like mushrooms. But this one has. I sit beside a man-made pond and wonder what Corbusier may have thought of all this. Would he have approved, or mumbled his dissent? There is something unnatural about man-made beauty. Of course, I state the obvious, but I feel beauty must not be defined, it must remain, as they say, in the eye of the beholder. For if man discovers the formula, every building would be Taj Mahal, every car a Beetle, every phone an iPhone, every music system a Bang & Olufsen, every book The Old Man and the Sea. Every couplet would be Ghalib’s and every poem a Madhushala.

城市发展需要很长的一段时间,从而在长时间沉淀中获得只属于这座城市的一种精神,一种气质。一座城市不可能在短短十年内建成,他们会起起伏伏,并不是像矿井里的石油一样会自行涌出,也不会像雨后春笋般冒出来。但是当我独自坐在一个人工湖旁边的时候,我陷入了沉思,我在想:不知道柯布西耶是否曾想过在中国发生的这一切【注7】?他会赞成今天中国的这些变化吗?还是会喃喃自语地表达自己的异议?说到底,我认为人造风景总归是有一些不自然的。但我又觉得美是不能被定义的,美只能通过旁观者的注视来体现出它的价值。即所谓情人眼里出西施。如果人们只遵循一个固有的模式,那么每一栋建筑物都会像泰姬陵;每一辆汽车都会像甲壳虫;每一支手机都会像iPhone;每一个音响都会像Bang&Olufsen;每一本书的情节都会像《老人与海》;每一篇两行诗都像Ghalib;每首诗都是《夜酒馆豪饮录》(Madhushala)了。

【osmond译注07】勒·柯布西耶(Le Corbusier1887年10月6日-1965年8月27日),原名Charles Edouard Jeannert-Gris,是20世纪最重要的建筑师之一,是现代建筑运动的激进分子和主将,被称为“现代建筑的旗手”。他和瓦尔特·格罗皮乌斯、路德维格·密斯·凡·德·罗以及弗兰克·洛依德·赖特并称为四大现代建筑大师。

Tianjin, like other rich Chinese cities, has human movement under a tight leash. The Chinese migrant gets what is called a Hukou work permit, clasping which he may come and work in these great cities, but when the work is finished, when the building or the highway is completed, he has to return to his village for him to avail of all the benefits that come with the Hukou, like buying property or car or healthcare. But, having tasted blood, witnessed the uber-rich, walked the pall-malls, travelled on bullet trains, what will he do there – stretch out on a charpai under the generous shade of a Banyan tree?

天津也像其他富裕的中国城市一样,政府都在严格的控制着的人口流动。中国农村的流动人口需要一张叫做的"户口"的劳工证,持有此证就可以在类似天津这样的大城市找到工作。但是当阶段性的工作结束后,比如修建的高楼或公路完工后,他不得不回到他的农村。因为如果你想要购买房产、汽车或者需要政府提供的医疗服务。只有在你的户口所在地才能兑现"户口"所带来的好处。但是,在这些民工亲眼见过了大城市里的超级富豪、逛过百货大卖场、坐过子弹头列车后,就像一条贪婪的饿狼闻到了血腥味一般,他会做什么?还会泰然自若地躺在榕树荫下的椅子上睡觉吗?

Hukou is what Shiv Sainiks dream of, and it is what every one of those 800 million Indians trying to survive on 20 rupees a day dreads. Our cities may be filthy, roads pot-holed, trains and buses packed to the rafters, water contaminated, electricity truant, but our cities are for each one of us. What is more inhuman: to let a family of 10 erect a tarpaulin tent on a Mumbai pavement and eke out a living, or to watch them die a slow death in their drought or flood-hit village in Bihar or Assam or Rajasthan?

户口制度是湿婆神军党(Shiv Sainiks)的梦想,也是这些8亿印度人的每个人一天为了20卢比求生的恶梦。我们的城市可能脏污不堪;道路坑洼不平;火车和公共汽车的骨架上都趴满了人;水污染严重;电力供应无法正常,但是我们的城市是属於我们每个人的。我们是让一家十口人在孟买马路边搭个帐篷勉强维生好呢?还是眼睁睁看着他们全家死于比哈尔邦、阿萨姆邦和拉贾斯坦邦的乾旱洪水好呢?两者相比哪个显得更不人道?

【百科:湿婆神军党,意为湿婆的军队,是印度的一个民族主义政党,成立于1966年6月19日,由巴拉·萨克雷创立,宗旨基于印度教民族主义,信仰"土地之子"理念。曾经统治马哈拉施特拉邦,仍是该地区最有影响的印度教民族主义政党之一,认为马哈拉施特拉人应该在这个邦比外来人得到更多的权利。】

It is the tragedy of our nation to be still grappling with such questions 65 years after independence. What perhaps is more tragic is that in China no one can grapple with such a question.

在独立65年后的今天我们仍然面临这样的问题,这是我们民族的悲剧;不过也许更悲剧的是:在中国也没有一个人能解决这个问题。

The hapless villagers,  a thousand miles adrift of Beijing and Tianjin must simply wait for their turn, must suffer till the time they are rescued by the state and made to gallop on the GDP per capita wonderhorse.

这些手足无措的村民,漂泊在离家千里之外的北京、天津,无奈地等待属于自己的机会。他们必须一直忍耐,直到被一路狂飙的"人均GDP"救出。

The clamour for democratic rights and freedom of speech will not come from cities like Tianjin and Shanghai and Beijing. These cities have been made revolution-proof. Here they are all driving Audis and buying Burberry and skating their evenings away. No stomach is empty, no mind fervent. No one here will jump up and down on the grapes to produce any wrath. They are happy and content and eager to make more money.
There will be no Tiananmen in Tianjin.

来自天津,上海和北京等这些城市的人不会整天叫嚣民主权利和言论自由。因为这些城市已经取得了改革的成功。在这里,他们都是开奥迪、用Burberry、晚上去溜冰。这里的人们胃都饱满了,不用狂热的追随着某人的思想。这里没有人会在《愤怒的葡萄》中上窜下跳,他们快乐而满足,并且渴望赚更多的钱。当然,天津也不会有Tiananmen事件。

【补充:《愤怒的葡萄》(The Grapes of Wrath)是美国诺贝尔文学家约翰·史坦贝克的早年作品。描述大萧条时期美国人的生活】

The Chinese know this and they are moving steadily westwards and into the interiors, to numb the next lot with jaw-dropping wealth and prosperity.

中国人知道这一点,他们正稳扎稳打的推动西部大开发,他们所创造的财富和繁荣正惊掉了越来越多人的下巴。

When you come down to it man needs very little. What he needs is bread on the table, a happy job, a happy wife, happy kids (singular in China). He needs a solid house, a change of clothes, and a welcoming bed. He needs freedom from the tyranny of elements more than freedom from the tyranny of corrupt leaders. Any dictator who doesn’t understand this is staring down the barrel of a point-two-two. With all our freedom and democracy and human rights, we have failed to provide to 800 million of us what the rest take for granted. 800 million! These 800 million don’t need Google and Facebook and Twitter freedom, they don’t need Planning Commission white papers, they need a place to shit without being seen, they need a tap to fill their jerry cans without having to walk miles, they need a roof over their head, a right to life.

归根结底,中国人的需求真的很少。他需要的仅仅是餐桌上的的几片面包、一分安定的工作,他需要一位贤惠的妻子和一个可爱的孩子,他需要一间牢固的房子、一套换洗的衣服和和一张温馨的床。他更需要从残酷的基本生活需求那里获得解放,而不是从专横的腐败领导人那里得到自由;任何一个无法意识到这一点的独裁者都会面对一个0.22的枪口。而我们拥有所有的自由、民主、人权,却无法为8亿人提供其他人所应当得到的东西。8亿!这8亿人不需要Google、Facebook和Twiiter的自由,他们需要一个可以便溺但不被人随意发现的地方,他们需要自来水和储水容器而不是去几英里之外取水生活,他们需要一个可以遮挡风雨的地方和自由自在生活的权力。

India which is so proud to not be China, so proud to not be a dictatorship, so proud to be a vibrant democracy, should provide these simple needs or tattoo this: 清除贫穷 on her forearm. It means Garibi Hatao.

比起中国,印度既然如此自豪,如此骄傲于我们不是中国那样的独裁国家,如此骄傲我们有充满活力的民主,那就在前臂印上中文"清除贫穷"。

All these sky-scrapers, these gigantic museums and great halls, must need great maintenance, not to mention air-conditioning. And walking around, I notice that every flat of a housing complex has a split a/c jutting out from its balcony. The power consumption of a Chinese is five times more than that of an Indian (85 watts per person) but four times less than an American (1400 watts per person). Still some years to go, then, before the Las Vegasisation of the developing world is achieved. That’s the thing about the Yanks: good or bad they always set a precedent. In showing the world the glowing side of Capitalism they’ve made hypocrites out of us. How can one complain of mining and forest-cutting and at the same time use a mobile phone or an expressway that cuts travel-time by half? How can one argue against consumption, knowing that it is directly responsible for providing employment to millions? My tattered leather belt, that I am reluctant to replace, is keeping a tannery worker in Kanpur away from his square meal. My refusal to double my collection of 10 shirts prevents a family in Bangladesh from building a roof over their shack. Consume! Consume! Which is exactly what the Chinese are doing. The idea is to have in one’s wardrobe 50 T-shirts, one of which, to do your bit for the world, may carry Bapu’s quote: “Earth provides enough to satisfy every man’s need, but not every man’s greed.”

中国的这些摩天大楼、这些庞大的建筑物、博物馆等等,需要多少的维护费用?更不用说还有那些空调系统了。在四处溜达的时候我还发现,每一个住宅区的每一间公寓都有一个带独立空调的阳台。中国的人均电力消耗是印度人的5倍以上,但只有美国的四分之一。再过些年,中国的城市就会像Las Vegas一样的繁华。我对美国佬的看法就是,不管好事还是坏事,他们总是被当成先例的那一个:美国人向世人展示了资本主义制度闪光的一面,同时美国人也向世人展示了他们制造的伪君子。这就如同我们在抱怨矿山乱开采、滥伐森林的同时却离不开手机和能使通行时间减半的高速公路一样。我们怎么能反对消费呢?如果知道我们的消费能提供数以百万计的就业机会的话!如果我腰上的皮革腰带已破旧不堪了我都不愿意换掉它,那么这就会使得一个在Kanpur工作的制革工人吃不上饭。如果我不愿意在我的衣柜里囤积20件衬衫,那么孟加拉国的某个衬衫加工家庭将无法给他们的窝棚安个房顶。消费!消费!这就是中国人正在做的事情。我的想法是每个人的衣柜里都屯上50件T恤,这是你为这个世界做的一点贡献。正如Bapu的名言所说: “地球能够给每个人提供足够的资源,但不是贪欲。”

At the conference dinner, a thousand participants strut around appropriating hors d’oeuvres and expensive wine, while the Chinese Pavarotti embraces a large invisible balloon in front of him and renders his take on La traviata. The musical fountain is running wild like scared rabbits and the acrobats are balancing bone china on their fingers and toes. One can easily forget that 100 Chinese have perished in an earthquake this very morning in Yunnan province and more than 100,000 evacuated from their homes. But the only “minute’s silence” is what follows after every magical performance.

在大会晚宴上,1000名与会者在冷盘和昂贵的葡萄酒边流连,中国版的Pavarotti 挺着个大肚子在演绎着《茶花女》,音乐喷泉像受到惊吓兔子一样停不下来,杂技演员在自己的手指和脚趾骨上寻找平衡点。人们似乎都忘记了有100名中国人就在今早的地震中丧生,在云南有超过10万人被迫撤离家园。在所有的表演结束之后,大会主持人宣布“默哀一分钟。”这“一分钟的默哀”就是对死难者做的仅有的全部。

Taking in the Eastman-coloured water jets and naughty spurts, you realise that China is that toast where butter has been applied only in places. Some areas are rich and fat while others plain toasted, awaiting the richness and the fatness. The butter-knife is approaching though, and fast, and butter will be spread evenly soon. It is only the bravado of the provincial Chinese to be taken in punch after punch – Russians have that too – that makes them see through their torrid day and welcome the next.

在加入了Perkins Eastman设计的水流和顽皮喷泉的作用下,你会发现中国就像是只在一些地方涂抹了黄油的土司,当其他地方还在涂抹时,一些地方已经富得流油。虽然黄油刀正刷来,很快地,黄油也将均匀地遍地开来。所有这些你看到的都只是中国在虚张声势,当中国人还在左冲右突的热切期盼社会资源的"黄油"淋到自己时,俄罗斯人已然经历过了,我们热烈欢迎中国走入下一阶段。

【补充:Perkins Eastman负责天津滨海新区的总体规划】
(劍译注:黄油比喻增色修饰,吐司比喻未经开发的平面,黄油刀比喻建设工具。)

China, unlike the European powers that attained greatness through blood-money of the hundreds of countries and cultures they subjugated, hasn’t a single colony it can fool and loot. Its wealth comes from that craving of the Chinese people to see their nation as a developed nation soon. But what next, after BBC and CNN declare it to be “developed”, what next? The Chinese don’t know. Maybe then they would start meddling in other people’s affairs like the Americans do with great aplomb. Presently, all they want to do is make money, and chuckle at the hypocrisy of the Western nations as they come asking for help and prostrate before the new master. Not one whimper from these supposed upholders of Human Rights, not one mention of Tibet or Tiananmen – they only have cars and perfumes and haute couture to sell. As Kulbhushan Kharbanda put it so succinctly in Lagaan: “Ye goray log baap ke sagey nahin hotay…”

中国不同于欧洲列强,后者靠杀伐和掠夺别的国家的财富来成就自己,中国却没有一个殖民地可以供它欺骗和掠夺。中国的财富积累来自于本国人民,中国人渴望看到自己的国家成为一个发达的国家。BBC和CNN等西方媒体已经给中国戴上了"发达国家"的帽子。下一步怎么办呢?中国人还不知道,也许中国也会像美国那样泰然自若地插手别国的事情。但就目前来说,中国人想做的还是如何赚钱,然後对西方国家为了寻求帮助而跪倒在新主人面前,那依然表现的虚伪而暗自发笑。这些所谓的人权扞卫者,这时没有了一丝的抱怨,对TIBET和TIANANMEN也只字不提,他们只想推销他们的汽车、香水和高级时装。就如Kulbhushan Kharbanda在《印度往事》中简洁地说:"这些白人连自己的同胞都不放过呀..."

【补充:Kulbhushan Kharbanda,他在《印度往事》饰演剥削的大地主。在剧中英国殖民者逼迫占潘纳村交付两倍租税,村民前来低头恳求他不要增税。他如此回答:我可以了解大家的困境,但我的手头也很紧。这些英国佬竟然连自己的同胞都不放过...】

At the posh factory we are taken to, hundreds of Chinese men and women in shower caps play around with tiny metal objects, assembling them on the slow-moving conveyor belt in front. The guide informs us that iPhone5 and GalaxyS3 batteries are being assembled. The workers don’t even look up, not a whisper between them. Every two hours, we are told, they can take a 10-minute break. There is a constant hum in the hall. The workers are all used to it. It is the hum of money.

我们到一个漂亮的中国工厂去参观,那里有数百名戴着防尘帽的中国男女工人正在流水线上安装一个小金属配件。导游告诉我们,iPhone5和GalaxyS3的电池也是在这里组装的。这些工人工作专注,没人到处张望,也没人窃窃私语。有人告诉我们,每隔两个小时他们有10分钟的休息时间。车间有持续的作业工具发出的嗡嗡声,这些工人们似乎都已经习惯了。我想这就类似于贩卖机里掉下硬币那种让人愉悦的声音吧。



The conference is over and all of us are carrying new ideas to save the world inside our conference bags. My stay in China is at an end. Air China flight 947 to Delhi is crowded – so many Indian faces, so much facial diversity that it is soothing to the eyes after a week of similitude. I am going back to my filthy corrupt country that I love, and my Chinese experience has convinced me that India, too, will get there, only that it will take that much longer. That it’ll be that much harder.

会议结束了,我的中国之行也结束了。同行的我们所有人的会议袋里都有了拯救印度的新想法。中国国际航空公司的947航班飞往德里,因为有很多的印度面孔而显得这班航班拥挤不堪。另一方面,我已经受够了一周只看到一副一模一样的面孔,一下看到这麽多多样性的面孔而觉得心安。我要回到我深爱着的肮脏堕落的我的祖国了,而中国经验告诉了我,印度也将会走同样的路,只是会花的时间更长,来的也将更难。

China has her own problems, problems that aren’t apparent to a casual visitor, but it has achieved one thing that is indisputable – it has taken over the mantle from the West, the mantle of Capitalism, and it has tried to hide it by coating it with a veneer of Communism. But it is easy for people to see through this coating, to be able to smell Chanel and taste Chardonnay and ride Audis, and I feel the token spoonful of communism will soon be rejected by the masses; it will be consigned to that same dustbin of history that’s overflowing with the Soviet and the Eastern Bloc and the Pol Pot experiments. And once the veneer is gone, what will shine through from this part of the world would be free enterprise and make-do democracy, possibly in that order.

中国有它自己的问题,只不过对我一个游客而言问题不明显。但毋庸置疑的一点是,中国已经批上了来自西方的外衣,资本主义的外衣,而且以涂抹共产主义的装饰来试图掩藏。但是对人们来说很容易通过香奈儿、品嚐葡萄酒和乘坐奥迪来看穿这个涂料。我觉得共产主义制度将很快被群众拒绝,就如同苏联东欧和波尔布特一样,被扔到历史的垃圾箱。一旦共产主义的玩儿脱了,满世界都将充满了自由、民主的企业和人民。

The plane touches down on the desi tarmac and like programmed-paratroopers we place our hands on the seatbelt buckle, searching for that hard to decipher backward tug of the plane that’ll grant us the freedom to shoot up and wrench open the overhead lockers. Two students are stuffing Air China pillows in their backpacks and the air hostesses look away. They know their land is now rich and they can afford it.

飞机降落在了德里的停机坪上。我们像伞兵一样把手放在安全带锁扣上死命想法挣开安全带以方便打开头顶的行李舱。这时候两名学生把中国国航的靠枕塞进他们的背包,空姐却装作没看到一般目视远方,她们知道现在她们的国家有的是钱,可以经得起损失。
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